SPRING—(BEGINNING OF APRIL TO MID JUNE)

• Cut back all perennials to ground level that where left in place through the winter months.  Rake up or blow out left over leaves from previous fall.  Iris needs special attention at this time.  Cut back old leaves and clean them down to the rhizome.  Do not mulch.  Remove any soft or rotting rhizomes and check for Iris bore.  Discard or compost the old foliage and leaves. (See enclosure for composting guide.)
• Unwrap evergreens.  Spray with deer repellent if necessary.
• Start annual seeds indoors in late March or early April.
• Pull back mulch materials for spreading plants to allow them to mature.  If the garden needs it, add mulch materials at this time for weed control and moisture retention.  There should not be more than 3” of wood mulch on your plant material, and never piled on the trunk of trees.
• Divide large perennials and transplant as they crown the surface of the soil.
• Transplant any deciduous shrub before it breaks dormancy.  Water thoroughly.
• Selectively prune back ornamental trees, and some types of shrubbery.  (See enclosed list)  Dormant sprays can be used at this time to help alleviate diseases in ornamental trees.
• Fertilize plant material.  Use specialized fertilizers for roses, evergreens, rhododendrons, and azaleas.

Fertilize perennials once per month, and trees and shrubs up until July.

• Use systemic herbicides around ornamental shrubs and trees.
• Put down slug bait around hostas or ground covers if necessary.
• Apply pre-emergent to areas that you don’t want weed seeds to germinate in.  This will have to be repeated several times during the year.
• Pull or spray weeds immediately as they begin to grow.
• Plant annuals and vegetables after danger of frost.
• Make sure garden stays properly watered once coming out of dormancy.
• Prune evergreens after new growth has grown.
• Put cages over the areas where perennials need additional support.

Enclosed are some maintenance guidelines to help the beginning gardener care for their plant materials. With new products coming on the market, and regional differences, this list is not all-inclusive, but should point the beginning gardener in the right direction for your zone. Remember any garden is only as good as the soil in which it is planted.

TOOLS YOU WILL NEED:

• Pruning tools: Hand pruner, lopping shears, small saw, hedge shears, and sharp garden scissors
• Other necessities: Sharp shovel, flat shovel, garden rake, garden fork, small hand tools, wheelbarrow, backpack sprayer, hoses, sprinklers, and a good perennial reference book
• Personal necessities: Sunscreen, bug spray, good gloves, hat, water bottle, and work shoes

SPRING – BEGINNING OF APRIL TO MID JUNE

• Cut back all perennials to ground level that where left in place through the winter months.  Rake up or blow out left over leaves from previous fall. Iris needs special attention at this time. Cut back old leaves and clean them down to the rhizome. Do not mulch. Remove any soft or rotting rhizomes and check for Iris bore. Discard or compost the old foliage and leaves.
• Unwrap evergreens.  Spray with deer repellent if necessary.
• Start annual seeds indoors in late March or early April.
• Pull back mulch materials for spreading plants to allow them to mature. If the garden needs it, add mulch materials at this time for weed control and moisture retention. There should not be more than 3” of wood mulch on your plant material, and never piled on the trunk of trees.
• Divide large perennials and transplant as they crown the surface of the soil.
• Transplant any deciduous shrub before it breaks dormancy.  Water thoroughly.
• Selectively prune back ornamental trees, and some types of shrubbery.  (See enclosed list)  Dormant sprays can be used at this time to help alleviate diseases in ornamental trees.
• Fertilize plant material. Use specialized fertilizers for roses, evergreens, rhododendrons, and azaleas.
• Fertilize perennials once per month, and trees and shrubs up until July.
• Use systemic herbicides around ornamental shrubs and trees.
• Put down slug bait around hostas or ground covers if necessary.
• Apply pre-emergent to areas that you don’t want weed seeds to germinate in. This will have to be repeated several times during the year.
• Pull or spray weeds immediately as they begin to grow.
• Plant annuals and vegetables after danger of frost.
• Make sure garden stays properly watered once coming out of dormancy.
• Prune evergreens after new growth has grown.
• Put cages over the areas where perennials need additional support.

SUMMER – MID JUNE TO MID SEPTEMBER

• Prune  spring flowering shrubs after they bloom such as: rhododendrons, azaleas, forsythia, etc…
• Until the end of June, pinch back perennials that bloom later in the summer and need to fill out.
• Cut off all spring flowering bulb leaves that are yellowing.
• Spray deer or rabbit repellents as needed.
• Remove seedpods from spring flowering perennials after they are done flowering to help stop seed production and encourage root growth.
• Stake tall unstable perennials for support.
• Continue a fertilization program.
• Make sure gardens stay watered.  Early morning is the best time to water.
• Keep up with the weeds, by pulling or spraying.
• Divide spring flowering perennials.
• Be on the “look-out” for insect or disease damage and treat appropriately.
• “Dead head” all summer flowering perennials to prolong blooming season.
• “Cut-back” all plant material that is yellowing and going dormant.
• Harvest vegetables as they ripen.
• Pick flower bouquets.

FALL – MID SEPTEMBER THROUGH NOVEMBER)

• Some people like the interest perennials can lend to the landscape during the long winter months and leave the “clean up” go until spring.  Others can’t tolerate the “messiness”. There is no right or wrong way. Cleaning up the gardens in the fall helps eliminate a host of seeds from germinating the following spring. So if you don’t want your perennials going to seed, cutting them back in the late fall and composting the debris is the best thing to do. It also sets a nicer stage for spring flowering bulbs.
• Dig up annual bulbs such as, dahlia and canna, and winter over in a brown paper sack filled with dry moss. Store in cellar until next spring.
• Plant spring flowering bulbs such as tulips and daffodils.
• Divided summer flowering perennials until about the middle of September.
• “Prune back” summer flowering shrubbery.
• Water plant material thoroughly before the winter sets in. Evergreens really appreciate this extra effort.
• Cover tender perennials and bury roses after the first hard frost.
• Take in accessories and pottery for winter protection.
• Spray “wilt proof” and boxwood, rhododendrons, and evergreens to prevent winter moisture loss.
• Protect young tree trunks from deer and rodents by covering with a tree wrap.
• Wrap evergreens in burlap that might get damaged by the sun or deer during the winter months.

WINTER – NOVEMBER THROUGH MARCH

• Look at seed catalogs. Take gardening seminars. Stay in shape so you can garden next spring!

• Make sure all newly planted trees and shrubs, evergreens, rhododendrons, and Carol Mackie Daphnes are well watered throughout the root system before deep frost.

• Wrap chicken wire/hardware cloth around base of all tender trees and shrubs to avoid rabbit girdling including, but not limited to:  Serviceberry, Burning Bush, Crabapples, and Viburnums.

• Wrap tender tree trunks to avoid sun scald and deer rubs.

• Spray rhododendrons and ornamental evergreens with an anti-transpirant, such as “Wilt-Pruf.”

• Optional:  Wrap ornamental evergreens to avoid deer damage.

• Pile mulch or compost on base of hydrangeas and Carol Mackie Daphnes once ground is frozen (usually mid-November) to protect roots from freeze-thaw cycles.  Chrysanthemums have a greater chance of survival if mulched at this same time, with mulch or soil.

• If spring is dry, water once ground thaws.  Fertilize plants when leaves begin to emerge.

• Spring blooming shrubs, such as forsythia, lilacs, azaleas, and rhododendrons should be pruned after blooming.  Other trees and shrubs can be pruned in early spring while still dormant, although it is best to prune maples in early summer after the sap-flowing.  Please call with any specific pruning questions.

• Perennials can be trimmed back after they have turned brown, or left over winter. Many perennials give good winter interest and the dead foliage can help hold snow around the base of the plant.  Some perennials that remain green going into winter, such as bergenia and coralbells should not be cut back in fall; instead, any brown foliage can be cut back in spring. Any diseased foliage should be removed and discarded.

• Don’t forget to bring the pumps in from your water features.

• SPREAD THE WORD:  If you refer three customers that have their landscapes installed through Landscape Solutions, Landscape Solutions will provide you with a tree!

• If you have any concerns or questions, please give us a call.

Being passionate about something in life can make all the difference in the quality of life.   Passion gives one a reason to get up in the morning, it energizes.  It spurs one on, it has no time line or limits.  I don’t think you can control passion, it is a gift.  It brings joy lifting and encompassing all that pass through it’s doors.  Passion can help focus until all is done. I feel passionate about the creative process; meeting people, developing concepts and thoughts, creating beautiful places.  I feel blessed to have passion in my life!  Find something to be passionate about and it will affect all around you.  Have a wonderful fall season….and Happy Gardening!

I wonder just where my life would be without growing and tending plants.  As a toddler I was already picking flowers for the family vase.  I had an affinity towards nature.  I was attracted to the dirt, the trees, flowers and weeds.    Growing up one of twelve children in a small central Wisconsin town we had to learn to entertain ourselves.  My brothers and I would climb the samplings and sway with the wind @ the top.  We would snitch apples from our neighbors.  And we grew things.  I started growing plants @ a very young age.   I starting with, hard to kill indoor plants, like the “spider” and the “strawberry”.  They didn’t mind being neglected and or slightly over watered at times.  My enthusiasm began early on because they were so tolerant of my hit or miss practices.    However, I must admit, I made up for all my neglect by talking to them.  I told them all my problems…and you know I think they understood.   I got hooked when I figured out I could root new plants by myself.

4-H played a major role in my love affair with plants.  I was also fortunate to have a step mother that enjoyed the art of gardening.  Early on, I learned a little rotten manure could go along ways to encourage growth.  Our family belonged to the local 4-H club.  I learned so much in 4-H, and I especially enjoyed vegetable gardening and canning.  For years my whole family got in to the act.  We made wine, pickles, applesauce and jam.  It was so rewarding to grow things, but then to take it to the next level and make something useful from what was grown was very rewarding.  It was something the whole family enjoyed at different times during our upbringing.  Even though it was hard, and we sometimes complained, it brought the family together.  And we all enjoyed the rewards.

 The first thing I did when I fell in love the first time was plant a garden.  It was a pathetic attempt for a young college gal, but I loved the process.  Each time I moved since my young adult life I’ve planted a garden.  As I got older and had children of my own my desire for vegetables waned and perennials gained favor.  For about 20 years of my life I accumulated and divided perennials.  I did it for myself, my friends, my clients, and my community.  Gardening has kept me in relationships with others, by sharing information and plants.  It has kept me healthy by encouraging me to bend and stretch.  The warm sun made my skin glow by the end of the season.

 I’m in my fifties now and still communing with nature by gardening, however as time has aged me I’ve learned to balance this art of gardening with other opportunities.  I am so very thankful though for the opportunity to grow and cultivate beautiful plants. As time passes I see how the art of gardening also is a spiritual process, connecting us to the earth and each other.

 My life has been a garden.  Looking forward to spring I can already smell the ground thawing.  I am thankful with anticipation.

 I encourage all my readers to bring your families together this year by planting a small garden or a few trees.  Watching what you plant grow will teach you many things, but most of all that we are all apart of nature.

As the landscaping installation season begins to slow down in preparation for the winter season, it seems a good time to reflect on why landscapes are so important. We feel that a beautiful landscape provides inner peace, strengthens family, builds community, and gives back to the earth.

 Inner peace is a reward from the garden each time one sits on the patio with morning coffee, walks through the garden to pull a few weeds, or rests on a hammock under a linden tree. A path that winds through the landscape forces us to slow down and look at the garden from different perspectives. The winter landscape can provide this feeling of peace even when indoors as one looks out a window to iced or snowy branches, berries, and evergreens. Dried ornamental grasses emerge from the snow and the wind creates patterns and drifts around them.

 The outdoor landscape affects all of our senses: the soft breeze, the scent of lilac, the relief a shade tree provides on a hot day, and the soft colors of spring turning into the vibrant colors of summer that deepen in fall, then fade into somber winter. Sometimes the landscape influences how we feel; a walk on a grey after-the-rain morning during a time of self-reflection may cause us to turn more inward. That same walk on a brisk fragrant fall day may help us to decide to get over it already – to make a batch of soup, some bread, and an apple pie.

 A landscape strengthens family by providing outdoor rooms for spending time. A lawn provides a spot for playing bocce, baseball or badminton. A deck or patio is a place where the family gathers for a cookout. Working together in the garden invites family interaction. A child can help plant a tree or a vegetable garden. They can feel that connection to earth that so many people crave. At harvest time, they can help preserve parts of summer. All those tomatoes we have to deal with! All the basil to turn into pesto! Then follows the satisfaction of using those foods during the winter.

 A landscape builds community by creating a sense of pride and place. This landscape includes not only our own yards, but also the created landscapes of places we gather, and the whole natural landscape we have surrounding us. The landscape at St. Mary’s Church is enjoyed by many in our community, not just those who are members. The Leigh Yawkey Woodson Art Museum’s garden provides a pleasant stop after a museum visit or as a destination on its own.

 Locally, we are surrounded by natural landscapes that allow for larger interaction, including but not limited to Eau Claire Dells, Rib Mountain, Council Grounds, Weston Eau Claire River Trail, and Nine Mile. We can gather for skiing, walking, and biking. New bike paths being created by the cities allow us to enjoy the nature we have close at hand.

 Gardening gives back to the earth. Planting a tree helps. Composting helps. Utilizing local produce helps. While we make our little corner beautiful, we need to look at the larger landscape and make a commitment to look at the earth as a living organism and think about global responsibility in our personal lives. We hope as you kick through the leaves this fall, you reflect on how important our environment is on every level. Enjoy and do your part to teach the young! Happy Gardening.

Hardscaping is one of the most vital aspects of the landscape design process.   It comes before the planting plan.  How exterior hardscaping interacts with the dwelling should be well thought out.  In   new construction, or major remodeling, it should be considered an important element in the total design package.  In many of today’s house plans, it is not uncommon to find some of the same elements used in the exterior brought into the interior in the form of stone floors, counters, and the like.    Hardscaping unifies the dwelling with the surrounding environment.  It provides a cohesive “backbone,” for the gardens and exterior landscape. Without the integrity of good hardscaping design, the gardens lack structure. I define hardscaping as, “Anything not living in the garden.” That would include, but is not limited to: concrete, asphalt, clay, rubber, wood, metal, fabric, glass, lighting, pottery, and rock.

My favorite hardscaping element is rock. I love to mix rock with other hard-surface materials, such as metal, wood, brick, concrete and other rock. Incorporating rock solidifies design concepts. The strength of rock also complements the softness of the snow which blankets our earth so much of the year. We are blessed with an abundance of different types of rock here in Wisconsin. There are quarries of red granite as well as soft sandstones. Thanks to the great glaciers, there are literally fields of granite boulders of all sizes. In addition, many other types of fractured rock are blasted out of the hills, making way for roads and buildings.  Thanks to our global market, it is now affordable to get rock from as far away as China.

In the landscape, other types of hardscaping can act as an “adhesive” by connecting the outdoor gardens with the dwelling in the form of walkways, paths, and patios. Hardscaping elements also act as an integrating agent by repeating, coordinating, or contrasting the building materials already used on the site. Integration of materials brings harmony to the surroundings. Native rock working in harmony with other hardscaping materials, as well as plant materials, is the cohesive element in many of our landscape designs.

Hardscaping design should have longevity and offer a sense of permanence. It should be designed, placed and constructed with this in mind. Hardscaping elements are visible during all seasons. They must hold the garden together with interest even when the plants are resting or covered with snow. If plant materials are the “yin” in the garden, hardscaping is the “yang.” Hardscape allows the plant materials to sing with softness, color, texture and fragrance. Like any good relationship there must be balance between the two elements to achieve the highest possible end result.

Hardscaping is many things, but most of all, functional. It holds, retains, paves, encloses, protects, transitions, accents, and beautifies. Hardscaping a garden properly can add safety features such as railings or lighting. Hardscaping adds places of rest in the form of furnishings.  Hardscaping also adds a sense or inner reflection by incorporating water features.   A garden can add areas of play and activity with properly designed sports courts, pools and play grounds.

Like any good piece of music, the gardens have to sing, building with “fortes” and softening with “pianos.” Hardscaping can help achieve this by bringing “cause for pause” in the form of a small bench area set inside the garden. Hardscaping also helps add impact by using compression and release. An example of this might be a gateway at the end or beginning of a path, marking the opening to a large grassy lawn. In these ways it intervenes and helps control the participant’s attention, subtly adding a sense of safety, rest, harmony, and direction. Hardscaping may also give direction and visual movement in the form of destinations and focal points, drawing the participant out into the environment, and helping to entice the senses.

In the future when planning a new home, landscape or garden setting, I hope you will give more thought to hardscaping and the importance of using it properly. Its dependability is very attractive in this ever changing world.

After a long, cold, dark Wisconsin winter, people are eager to get outside and enjoy “Mother Nature.” They’ve spent time in bookstores looking at gardening books, as well as researching on the internet and attending gardening seminars and shows. They’ve collected ideas from magazines and are full of design concepts that they’re ready to implement!  In April and May, people are full of energy and desire to make their outdoor dreams come true. Bringing those ideas together into a cohesive design and implementing that design is where a professional landscape service is needed. In the spring, professional landscape businesses are flooded with requests for help. Unfortunately, many clients are put on a waiting list. It takes months for a reputable company to sort through the list, putting excessive pressure on the industry, and at times compromising design and installation. Because projects are completed on a first-come, first-serve basis, people that come to a designer in May end up waiting longer than they would have otherwise. People become impatient with the process.

 At this time of year, for some odd reason, most people start losing their desire to garden.  In August, traditionally, it is back to school month.  Believe it or not, I’ve heard the comment that fall is in the air as early as the end of July. The focus is taken off the landscape and directed towards “getting that last vacation in before another summer ends.” In landscape architecture and construction, nothing is further from the truth.  It is an industry that functions all year. The late summer months are a great time to plan for fall installations as well as spring installations. With the pressure off both the professional landscape contractors/designers and the clients, the process of collaboration is more enjoyable.

 Spring is an awesome time to plant, taking advantage of cool weather, rain, and great plant selections, but fall planting can also be stimulating with the weather being even more agreeable. Trees, shrubs, and evergreens do great planted in the fall because there is less heat stress. Summer installs work well, but require more work from the customer with more watering demands. The key to fall planting success is thorough watering into a deep frost. Evergreens and broadleaf plants especially need to be watered in well before the snow flies.

 Many perennials can be divided and planted in the fall. However, I tend to avoid dividing the root structure of perennials after Labor Day, unless I am on site to properly water them. Potted materials are more successfully planted until the end of fall. The cooler less hectic days are also easier on the construction crews.

 So, don’t hesitate to take the time to plan a landscape now.  Having the time to fit your needs and desires together with a well thought out plan can save time, money, and energy as well as be totally enjoyable!  It can give you the guidance needed to work on a more elaborate design over a period of time. Be smart…plan now.

 General tips for planning your landscape:

• Find property lines.
• Know where utility lines are.
• Have an idea of what style of landscape you desire—have ideas ready for your designer.  Show pictures of things you like and dislike. This saves so much time and helps the designer understand your particular tastes and desires. It’s great to have unique ideas, as long as they are in keeping with the neighborhood. People should look at landscaping as a part of a community or neighborhood.
• Picking the proper plants for a landscape is a must.  Direction and soil type should be considered, as well as the overall finished growth pattern, color, and texture.  Whatever you do, leave plenty of room the plant to mature.  This is better for the plant, and might mean less pruning for the homeowner.
• If possible, get a copy of your house plan to share with your designer, as well as plot plans, surveys, etc…this will save lots of time.
• If you want to entertain outside, decide how many people might use the space at one time and how it will be used. Make the space big enough the first time!
• Unify buildings with landscape by picking hardscaping materials and plant materials to complement what already exists. Don’t put too many different materials together. Less is more. Integrate nature as much as possible.
• How much maintenance do you want?  Perennials may come up year after year, but they need cutting back, dividing, dead heading, fertilizing, and watering.  Now, many people love doing this, but for others it becomes overwhelming.
• Have an idea of a budget. If you share this with a professional designer, she/he can develop a plan considering your financial needs.
• Know your soil type. Bring good composted soil in to help build planting beds.
• Consider investing in irrigation…watering plant materials takes time!
• Consider night lighting. It adds so much ambiance.
• Consider winter interest with structure and evergreen plants.
• To avoid problems, deal with professional people you can trust. Get references ahead of time. Find people that will guide you through the process and help with follow-up. One of the most rewarding aspects of our work is keeping in contact with our customers through the years as they work with their gardens.

 Happy Gardening…..

 Why does anyone live in zone 3b-4? It’s vivid, fluorescent “fiddle heads” in spring popping up with wet moss underfoot. Mystifying northern lights that enrapture the heart dance across the sky on cool summer evenings. Hardwood forests heat up with analogous warm hues that crescendo in the fall. Winter branches heavy with snow create magic tunnels. It is easy to envy zone 5-6, but then the magnificent lady slippers bloom and everything is right.

Wisconsinis a potpourri of farm fields, wooded hills, rocky bluffs, and low wet swamps. The northern part of the state is punctuated with thousands of lakes. The greatMississippihelps border the west while theGreat Lakeshelp enclose the east and north.Wausau, where I reside with my family, is considered the “gate way” to God’s country. It is located in the heart of the dairy land.

For the Landscaping business, time is limited in the north. It’s not for the weak of spirit. Work is fast and efficient, with preparation as the key. Hours are spent in the dark winter months preparing for the spring thaw. Details are worked out ahead of time to alleviate wasted time. Equipment is tuned and people are ready to work hard as the snow melts away.

Hardscaping is one of the most vital aspects of the design process. Without a “backbone”, landscape design falls apart. I define hardscaping as, “Anything not living in the garden.” That would include, but is not limited to: concrete, asphalt, clay, rubber, wood, metal, fabric, glass, lighting, pottery; and, with its indigenous strength the greatest of these is rock.

Incorporating rock solidifies design concepts. The strength of rock also compliments the softness of the snow which blankets our earth so much of the year. We are blessed with an abundance of different types of rock here in Wisconsin. There are quarries of red granite as well as soft sandstones. Thanks to the great glaciers, there are literally fields of granite boulders of all sizes. In addition, many other types of fractured
rock are blasted out of the hills, making way for roads and buildings.

Hardscaping can act as an adhesive by connecting the outdoor gardens with the main residence, or place of business. It acts as an integrating agent by repeating, coordinating, or contrasting the building materials already used on the site. This brings harmony to the surroundings. Native rock working in harmony with other handscaping materials, as well as plant materials, is the cohesive element in our landscape designs.

Hardscaping should have longevity and offer a sense of permanence. It should be designed, placed and constructed with this in mind. Hardscaping elements are visible during all seasons. They must hold the garden together with interest even when the plants are resting or covered with snow. If plant materials are the “yin” in the garden, hardscaping is the “yang.” Hardscape allows the plant materials to sing with softness, color, texture and fragrance. Like any good relationship there must be balance between the two elements to achieve the highest possible end result.

Hardscaping is many things, but most of all, functional. It holds, retains, paves, encloses, transitions, accents, and beautifies. Hardscaping a garden properly can add safety features such as railings or lighting. Hardscaping adds places of rest and reflection by incorporating benches and water. A garden can add areas of play and activity with properly designed sports courts, pools and play grounds.

Like any good piece of music, the gardens have to sing, building with “fortes” and softening with “pianos.” Hardscaping can help achieve this by bringing “cause for pause” in the form of a small bench area set inside the garden. Hardscaping also helps add impact by using compression and release. An example of this might be a gateway at the end or beginning of a path, marking the opening to a large grassy lawn. In these ways it intervenes and helps control the participant’s attention, subtly adding a sense of safety, rest, harmony, and direction. Hardscaping may give direction and visual movement in the form of destinations and focal points, drawing the participant out into the environment, and helping to entice the senses.

In the future when planning a landscape or garden setting, I hope you will give more thought to hardscaping and the importance of using it properly. Its dependability is very attractive in this ever changing world.